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COOKBOOK NOOK / The Inn at Little Washington Cookbook: A Consuming Passion

Leah Jorgensen Jean


Today is Thanksgiving Day and I have so much to be thankful for. I love this holiday because of what it means to us – it was never about subscribing to that pilgrim myth – it’s always been about the season just after harvest, the beauty of autumn, giving thanks for the fruits of our labor, creating and enjoying a feast of the foods of the season, and, of course, gathering for that feast with our nearest and dearest. Some years its been with just my immediate family, sometimes it’s been with my mother’s side of the family, out here in Oregon it has been with my father’s brother’s family and also a long run of epic Friendsgivings at a colleague’s home in the heart of Oregon wine country, and, now, at our wine country home with my husband’s family.

And, oh, the food! I just can’t imagine this day without my husband’s Brussels sprouts, his fingerling potatoes, the radicchio and fennel salad, my Grand Marnier cranberry sauce, and the sweet potato pie I make just for him from a recipe straight out of Atlanta, Georgia – his hometown. The best food reminds us of and takes us home!

Food is the ultimate emotional and pleasurable connector that imbues not just nourishment for the body, but also for the heart and soul. When I think of the most special, emotional meals of my life – I think of certain moments at my Italian grandmother’s house, as well as back home in Virginia at my childhood kitchen table. But, when I think of the most special, electric, pleasurable meals of my life, I’m taken back to Y2K when I was part of an incentive winning team at the Corporate Executive Board in Washington, DC that earned a spectacular dinner at The Inn at Little Washington in bucolic Little Washington, Virginia.

The decor of the Inn was warm, whimsical and elegant. Stepping into this place was magical – like entering Narnia. The food was a stunning and elevated collection of mostly Virginia inspired cuisine with perfectly paired wine tastes that electrified the food. But what really stood out for me was the impeccable service, the precision and orchestration of eight servers approaching our round table of eight, placing our plates on the table at the exact same second – so that no dinner guest waited for service. Literally all plates landed on the table at once. I marveled at this level of attention to detail to create a seamless experience for all dinner guests.

It’s no mystery why The Inn at Little Washington has earned Three Michelin Stars and many James Beard Foundation accolades, including “Restaurant of the Year” and “Lifetime Achievement Award” for American icon Chef Patrick O’Connell. The list of praise goes on and on.

You can witness founder/owner Chef Patrick O’Connell’s experience leading up to his Third Michelin Star on this year’s PBS special: A Delicious Documentary: The Inn at Little Washington. It was also released on Prime Video.

Back in 2000, after my life changing dining experience at the Inn, I decided to leave behind the corporate business world to follow my passion for gastronomy – but on the wine side! I left my job to manage a charming wine shop in DuPont Circle in Washington, DC, and the rest is history! Here I am over 20 years later trying to make my own mark as one of the best producers of Cabernet Franc in the world. So, yes, the Inn at Little Washington is one of the reasons why I am a winemaker today.

I was so inspired that night at the Inn that I picked up a copy of Chef Patrick O’Connell’s classic cookbook: The Inn at Little Washington: A Consuming Passion.

This cookbook has been a staple in my kitchen. This is also one of the first serious and challenging cookbooks that I took on. And, since I found out I have Celiac disease, I have learned how to substitute gluten free alternative ingredients successfully. This cookbook has made me a better cook and it has helped me to feel more empowered to cook gluten free fine cuisine.

One of the highlight recipes for me is Fettuccine with Morel Mushrooms and Country Ham (p. 36) with its beautiful presentation – I use whatever edible flowers are in my garden to garnish accordingly. Also, I fell in love with the Garden Sorrel Vichyssoise (p. 47). I have always loved cold soups and this one is refreshing and so pleasantly cooling. This book is packed with stunning soups! Other standouts that I’ve relished re-creating are the Golden Gazpacho with lobster and the Chilled Peach Soup with Virginia Riesling (both on p. 50). These soups are crowd pleasers and truly level up your table!

I went through a poussin phase when I lived in Georgetown. I loved shopping at Dean & Deluca (this was when the college drama Felicity was still running – for those who remember the D&D reference) and I would challenge my 20-something young lady self to cook outside of my comfort zone. Dean & Deluca sold all kinds of unique meats, cheeses and other gastronomy – including poussin. I often prepared O’Connell’s Charcoal-Grilled Poussins Marinated in Blackberry Vinegar (p.66) when I was trying to impress a fella. The berries really made the dish look beautiful. This potent and impressive main course did, indeed, impress. Back then, young women were still reminded the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach.

Another sophisticated dish published in the cookbooks is Boneless Rack of Lamb in a Pecan Crust with Barbecue Sauce and Shoestring Sweet Potatoes (p. 86). Since I’ve been living in the Pacific Northwest for over twenty years now, when I make this recipe I truly feel Virginia coursing through my bones, connecting me back to where I grew up. I’m not surprised that, through the years, this has been one of the Inn’s most popular versions of rack of lamb. With the lamb brushed with barbecue sauce and rolled in pecans, then served with the crispy shoestring sweet potatoes and sautéed fresh green beans – it makes a classic continental dish feel so soulfully Virginian. Yes, it transports this Oregon girl back to her Virginia roots.

There are so many recipes here that a home cook must experiment with – including the Garlic Custard (p. 116). O’Connell suggests pairing this “savory, golden yellow custard as a sensuous accompaniment to a roast leg or rack of lamb or a platter of sliced meat. They also can be used as an elegant garnish for a clear chicken soup or consomme.”

Finally, this cookbook offers all kinds of decadent desserts and sweets, but, it seems ice creams are the golden tickets to the ultimate dessert course and learning from this iconic chef’s masterful repertoire. The Peach Intensifier with Peach Ice Cream – holy wow! – (p. 144), A Watermelon Fantasy (p. 148), Ginger Ice Cream and Pumpkin Ice Cream (p. 150) – those were the eye-and-sensory-openers for me! Of course, he includes his classic ice creams like Butter Pecan, Buttermilk, Roasted Banana, Caramel, Vanilla, White Chocolate and his mesmerizing Dark Chocolate Sauce and White Chocolate Sauce (pp. 152-156).

I love that his desserts don’t require crazy techniques but simple ingredients that pack a punch of nostalgia and delight.

So, getting back to celebrating this incredible, timeless cookbook today, on Thanksgiving Day… I am basking in great anticipation – and deep gratitude – for my first return to the Inn at Little Washington in over two decades! I made a reservation this week with the Inn’s sommelier – a woman (so excited to meet her!) – to return to the Inn for dinner with my husband when we fly back to Virginia to spend the holidays with my family. We will whisk away in my mother’s Mini Cooper convertible for a much needed dreamy date night! We don’t get many of these opportunities to get away with a young child at home. So this will be even more appreciated! I cannot wait to see what has changed over the years and what remains classic to this enchanting place. I can’t wait to share my wine with the Inn’s sommelier, as this visit comes full circle for me.

It seems pretty evident that I will be coming home with another treasure from the Inn – and I have a few, including a keepsake holiday ornament of the Inn illustrated by Guy de Buffet. I intend to bring home a copy of Chef O’Connell’s other cookbook: Refined American Cuisine. I’m so excited to roll up my sleeves, tie on my apron and play with more recipes generously shared by Chef O’Connell.

I’ll be sure to document this long-awaited return to the Inn next month! So please stay tuned.

Happy Thanksgiving and may the warm spirit of this beautiful holiday nourish your mind, body and soul – and maybe inspire you to venture outside of your comfort zone to prepare or try something spectacularly new, unexpected, challenging and that brings you home.